Scott..thats what happens when they get old
Clutch plates undergo certain changes over time which deteriorate their operating specs.
Beyond simple wear>loss of material.
The term "Glazing" is used casually,,mostly to avoid an extended explanation that a lot of folks would either doubt or not understand.
Your '03 has had a commendably long run ,especially for a dirt bike.
That implies Proper Use and Care.
Nothing You or whoever's rode it DID to make them stick,,,
beyond simply rack up hours of Runtime.
By the same token,,,being a Natural Result of AGE,,,there's really nothing you can Do,or Quit doing,,to restore the thing back to proper operation.
Besides replacing the plates.
Clutches don't work quite like folks commonly imagine they do.
The Friction Plates are "Alive",,they're Dynamic.
A Single Plate observed in your hand or on the bench,,
LOOKS like a Single Item with No Moving Parts.
Easy to imagine how they create Friction during engagement,,,,that's pretty simple actually.
But the RELEASE is a Complex ,interactive activity which occurs on a microscopic level.
And it's ODD beyond what most folks would imagine.
There's a variety of Shade Tree Trix to "solve your prob".
I know them ALL.
All the ones which "work",,and How & Why.
And all the myths and wives' tales.
Reality and Truth is,,,they eventually DIE and cannot be resurrected to a degree which would offer any satisfactory run time..
Only a very temporary fix ,at best.
SOMETIMES a patch will hold up remarkably well,,,but that's not a realistic expectation.
The OLDER the plates,,,the less likely the success of "temporary restoration"
They're USEFUL to somebody who Must ride their bike to work a few more weeks to collect a paycheck to spend on new plates.
Or to dump a bike on an unsuspecting BUYER who'll get a couple weeks of good operation.
Long enough to make them think it was something THEY did,,,
long enough to absolve an unscrupulous Seller from Suspicion.
I mean to say,,there ARE reasons to hack a clutch job,,,ranging from "Necessary" to deliberate scam.
But if you Really want it to function Properly and expect several years of reliable service,,
All you can really do is Bury the Dead,,,
and put in some New plates.
Your 125 miraculously Somehow still has an adjustable clutch .
Very few bikes do anymore.
While you still have Cover Off,,,,
"HUNT" for the Lowest Point on throwout lever.
Then use adjuster on pressure plate to set an appropriate minimum gap.
That will give you MAX Lift range for your New Plates to break open free and clean.
Use Cable adjuster,,,to remove bulk of any remaining slack.
And then do "Fine Adjustment" at the Hand Lever.
It'd be well worthwhile to your engine,gearbox,shifter mechanism,,,and New Clutch to use Mobil 1 oil,,,
either 10w-40,,,15w-50,,,or 20w50.
Right now,,,Mobil 1 15w~50 "extended performance" is probably best overall choice.
It's excellent for bikes,,,pretty cheap,and conveniently available.
It offers more Lube qualities than your bike requires,,at temps your bike will "never" reach,,
and Lasts at least TWICE as long as most folks are willing to go between changes.
Can't Burn it up,cant Beat it down,,,and you're dumping Old oil into the drain pan that's still Better than most Fresh oil you could chose to dump into your motor.
TTR's are VERY Good bikes and a lot of fun.
Yours has been around a while
Fix it right and you'll be able to enjoy having it for a long time to come.
· 1 decade ago